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Alpine Tour recommended route

Finailspitze

Alpine Tour · Oetztal
Logo Ötztal Tourismus
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Ötztal Tourismus Verified partner  Explorers Choice 
  • Finailspitze
    / Finailspitze
    Photo: Ötztal Tourismus, Ötztal Tourismus
  • / Similaunhütte
    Photo: Ötztal Tourismus, Ötztal Tourismus
  • / Similaunhütte
    Photo: Bianca Klotz, Ötztal Tourismus
  • / Eingang Similaunhütte
    Photo: Bianca Klotz, Ötztal Tourismus
  • / Speisesaal Similaunhütte
    Photo: Bianca Klotz, Ötztal Tourismus
  • / Schafübertrieb auf der Similaunhütte
    Photo: Bianca Klotz, Ötztal Tourismus
  • / Wanderung zur Martin-Busch-Hütte
    Photo: Ötztal Tourismus , Ötztal Tourismus
  • / Zimmerlager Martin Busch Hütte
    Photo: Bianca Klotz, Ötztal Tourismus
  • / Schafübertrieb Martin Busch Hütte
    Photo: Bianca Klotz, Ötztal Tourismus
  • / Speisesaal Martin Busch Hütte
    Photo: Bianca Klotz, Ötztal Tourismus
  • / Hochjoch-Hospiz
    Photo: Ötztal Tourismus
  • / Aufstieg zum Hochjoch Hospiz
    Photo: Bianca Klotz, Ötztal Tourismus
m 3600 3400 3200 3000 2800 2600 2400 2200 2000 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 km
HOCHJOCH HOSPIZ -> oder  Martin Busch Hütte -> oder Similaunhütte -> FINAILSPITZE
difficult
Distance 7.2 km
3:30 h
1,214 m
128 m
From the Hochjoch Hospiz hiking time: approx. 5 hours
From the Similaunhütte hiking time: approx. 2- 2 ½ hours
From the Martin-Busch Hütte hiking time: approx. 3 ½ hours

Author’s recommendation

Reservation of the hut sleeping places necessary!
Profile picture of Ötztal Tourismus
Author
Ötztal Tourismus 
Update: March 30, 2021
Difficulty
difficult
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Highest point
3,516 m
Lowest point
2,286 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec

Safety information

For high alpine experienced mountaineers that are free from vertigo & surefooted. Excellent physical condition, extensive mountain experience, alpine climbing gear, safety- and orientation guide, good weather conditions recommended. Please pay attention to the current weather report: www.oetztal.com

Tips and hints

More details about hiking In Ötztal: https://www.oetztal.com/wandern 

Start

Hochjoch Hospiz, Martin Busch Hütte, Similaunhütte (2,412 m)
Coordinates:
DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 

Destination

Finailspitze

Turn-by-turn directions

Hochjoch Hospiz:

From the hut a steep footpath leads down to the bridge over Hintereisbach brooklet. The bending trail takes you up to Arzbödele where you cross the mountain brook coming down from Hochjochferner glacier. the bridge leads towards a footpath up to about 3000 m in the direction of Saykogel peak (close to the rain gauge). Heading southwards you traverse the glacier area of Hochjochferner with many crevasses, then further on to Hauslabjoch (3279 m). A snow and ice-covered route travels towards the very exposed, rocky ridge where advanced climbing skills are required. Along the lower peak you reach the main summit.

Hiking time: approx. 5 hours

 

Similaunhütte:

A signposted footpath takes you across the rocky ridge, followed by a short descending section over a corn snow field (often icy in summer!). Large boulders (cairns) are spread all over the shortly descending route to Tisenjoch where Ötzi - The Iceman was found. Another 20 walking minutes to Hauslabjoch (3279 m). Across snow and ice fields towards the ridge, advanced climbing skills are needed in this quite exposed part of the ridge. Along the lower peak you reach the main summit.

Hiking time: approx. 2- 2 ½ hours

 

Martin-Busch Hütte:

From the hut a well-maintained trail leads in the direction of Similaunhütte. After about 1 ½ hours you reach the "Beim Bild" area (last signpost to Similaunhütte), here you turn right and continue towards the glacier on rubble and boulder fields that take you to Tisenjoch where Ötzi - The Iceman was found. Another 20 walking minutes to Hauslabjoch (3279 m). Across snow and ice fields towards the ridge, advanced climbing skills are needed in this quite exposed part of the ridge. Along the lower peak you reach the main summit.

Hiking time: approx. 3 ½ hours

Note


all notes on protected areas

Public transport

Enjoy a both comfortable and relaxing train ride to the train station in Ötztal Bahnhof. You get off the train in ÖTZTAL Bahnhof where you change to a public bus or local taxi. The current bus schedule can be found at: http://fahrplan.vvt.at

 

Getting there

The car drive to the Ötztal valley. Situated in Tirol, the Ötztal valley set off in southerly direction and is the longest side valley in the Eastern Alps. The journey with the car leads you through the Inntal valley to the entrance of the valley and further on through the valley. Among the toll motorways you can also use the country roads. A route planner will show you the easiest and most convenient way: https://www.google.at/maps

Parking

The following parking options are available in the mountaineering village Vent

- In summertime in front of the village (parking machine, only coins or EC card) and at the chairlift (at the ticket office of the mountain railways)

- In wintertime only at the chairlift

Cost: € 5,00 per day/car

Coordinates

DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Author’s map recommendations

Kompass #042 | Inneres Ötztal und Pitztal, Gurgler Tal, Venter Tal | 1:25.000

Kompass #43 | Ötztaler Alpen, Ötztal, Pitztal | 1:50.000

Freytag&Bernd WK 251  | Ötztal, Pitztal, Kaunertal, Wildspitze  | 1:25:000

Equipment

Appropriate equipment such as breathable suitable outdoor clothes for the weather, ankle-high walking boots, wind-, rain- & sun protection, hat, possibly gloves, is for all hikes and tours necessary. Please bring a first-aid box, a mobile phone, a walking map and if there is no hut on the way a snack and enough to drink.

Basic Equipment for Alpine Routes

  • Layered, moisture wicking clothing
  • Long, warm technical socks plus liners and spares
  • 35-45 liter rucksack  (with rain cover)
  • Protection against sun, rain and wind (hat, sunscreen, water- and windproof jacket and suitable legwear)
  • Lip protection (SPF 30+)
  • Water- and windproof mountaineering jacket and trousers with ankle adjustment or separate gaiters
  • Water- and windproof gloves plus thin fleece inner gloves
  • Neckwear
  • moisture wicking skull / knit cap
  • Hiking poles
  • Sunglasses
  • Ample supply of drinking water and snacks
  • First aid kit
  • Blister kit
  • Bivy / survival bag  
  • Survival blanket
  • Headlamp
  • Pocket knife
  • Whistle
  • Cell phone
  • Cash
  • Navigation equipment / map and compass
  • Emergency contact details
  • ID

Technical Equipment for Alpine Routes

  • B2 or B3 mountaineering boots
  • Climbing harness
  • Climbing helmet
  • Ice axes (basic or technical with hammer and adze as required)
  • C2-C3 crampons with anti-balling plates (as required by route and to match boots)  
  • Single rope
  • Half ropes
  • Twin ropes
  • Friend/cam 0
  • Friend/cam 0.1
  • Friend/cam offset 0.1-0.2
  • Friend/cam 0.2
  • Friend/cam offset 0.2-0.3
  • Friend/cam 0.3
  • Friend/cam offset 0.3-0.4
  • Friend/cam 0.4
  • Friend/cam offset 0.4-0.5
  • Friend/cam 0.5
  • Friend/cam offset 0.5-0.75
  • Friend/cam 1
  • Friend/cam 2
  • Friend/cam 3
  • Friend/cam 4
  • Friend/cam 5
  • Friend/cam 6
  • Friend/cam 7
  • Friend/cam 8
  • Set of nuts
  • Double set of nuts
  • Small nuts
  • Medium nuts
  • Large nuts
  • Nut tool
  • Tricam(s)
  • Ball nut(s)
  • (Active) Camming device(s) for wider cracks such as the Gipsy
  • Hexentric(s)
  • Progress capture pulley(s) such as the Petzl Traxion
  • Micro ascender(s) such as the Petzl TiBloc
  • Pitons and hammer
  • Set of ice screws
  • Short ice screws
  • Medium ice screws
  • Long ice screws
  • V-Thread tool
  • 2x Harness tool holder such as the Ice Clipper or Caritool
  • Quickdraws
  • Locking device

Camping Equipment

  • Tent (3- or 4-season)
  • Stove (including fuel and utensils)
  • Sleeping mat. Sleeping bag with suitable temperature rating.
  • Food
  • Toiletries and medication
  • Toilet paper

Things to Bring if Staying in a Mountain Hut

  • Toiletries and medication
  • Quick-drying towel  
  • Ear plugs
  • Sleeping bag liner
  • Sleepwear
  • Alpine club membership card if applicable / ID
  • Coronavirus mask and hand sanitizer
  • The 'basic' and 'technical' equipment lists are generated based on the selected activity. They are not exhaustive and only serve as suggestions for what you should consider packing.
  • For your safety, you should carefully read all instructions on how to properly use and maintain your equipment.
  • Please ensure that the equipment you bring complies with local laws and does not include restricted items.

Similar routes nearby

  • Hochjoch Hospiz - Saykogel - Martin Busch Hütte
  • Hochjoch Hospiz - Schöne Aussicht
  • Mutspitze
  • Hochjoch Hospiz - Middle Guslarspitze - Vernagthut
  • From Fluchtkogel to Vernagthütte
  • Ötztal Trek Stage 14
  • Fluchtkogel
 These suggestions were created automatically.
Difficulty
difficult
Distance
7.2 km
Duration
3:30 h
Ascent
1,214 m
Descent
128 m
Scenic Refreshment stops available Summit route Ridge traverse

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